Posts Tagged ‘Cooking’

Avoiding Milk and Lactose
Fruit lassi
There are two quite distinct reasons for avoiding milk: either to avoid milk proteins or to avoid

lactose, the sugar found in milk. It is important not to confuse these two because the details of the

avoidance diet required are different. Only a few people need to avoid both milk proteins and lactose.
Diarrhoea and wind in response to drinking milk, but few other symptoms, usually indicates a reaction

to lactose — but a reaction to milk proteins could be an alternative explanation. If it is a reaction

to lactose, this may be due to either primary lactase deficiency or secondary lactase deficiency — your

doctor can order tests to make an exact diagnosis (see p. 79). Note that a bout of diarrhoea, however

caused, often produces a temporary lactose intolerance (secondary lactase deficiency).
Any symptoms other than (or in addition to) diarrhoea and wind strongly suggest a reaction to milk

proteins. This might be a true allergy, another type of immune reaction to milk (see pp. 72-3), or an

idiopathic intolerance reaction (see pp. 76-7). In theory, skin tests should identify true allergic

reactions to milk proteins. Unfortunately, skin tests are not infallible, and it is possible to have a

genuine allergy or other immune reaction to milk proteins, but give negative skin tests. This is

especially common with babies (see p. 65 and p. 69). There are no accurate tests that can confirm

intolerance reactions to milk proteins.
It is possible to have sensitivity to both milk proteins and lactose.
If tests do not give you a definitive answer, you may have to try both types of diet and see which one

works. Remember that lactose intolerance may be only temporary.
Avoiding milk proteins
If you have a sensitivity reaction to cow’s milk proteins, then you need to avoid:
•    milk and all milk-based drinks, including lactose-reduced milk (if you need to avoid lactose as

well, drops and tablets to reduce lactose — see Using lactase replacers, p. 183 — are safe and could be

used with a tolerated milk, e.g. goat’s milk)
•    cream, yoghurt, creme fraiche
•    all kinds of cheese, cottage cheese and cream cheese (some people may be able to tolerate

Norwegian brown cheese, called Gjetost, which is made with milk whey)
•    white sauce, bechamel sauce and other creamy sauces
•    custard, rice pudding and other milk-based puddings
•    almost all home-made cakes, biscuits, cookies, pancakes and pastry
•    some bread, rolls, waffles
•    almost all chocolate
•    casein, casemate, and lactalbumin in packaged foods (see p. 173); you may be able to tolerate

whey but experiment cautiously.
Unless your sensitivity is fairly mild, you will also need to avoid:
•    butter, except clarified butter (ghee)
•    most kinds of margarine (they generally contain milk derivatives, but
some are milk-free — health-food shops are a good source of these).
As long as you do not have a severe allergy to milk, you should be able to tolerate clarified butter.

Make this by melting butter over a low heat, pouring it into a glass jar, and leaving it to cool in the

refrigerator. The milk proteins will settle to the bottom, and be visible as whitish granules — only

eat the clear butter above this level.
Alternatively, put olive oil into a wide-necked container and place in the freezer. It will solidify,

and can be used as a spread in place of butter.
A few of those with cow’s-milk allergy can tolerate sheep’s milk, and possibly (but less commonly)

goat’s milk. However, most people must avoid these as well. (There are also rare individuals who are

allergic to goat’s and sheep’s milk but not to cow’s milk.) Ass’s milk, if you can get it, is tolerated

by most with cow’s-milk allergy. There are many substitutes for cow’s milk now available, such as soya

milk, almond milk, rice milk and hazelnut milk. Try a health-food shop for these. All can be used in

place of ordinary milk when cooking.
Margarine or clarified butter can be used in recipes that call for butter. Soya yoghurt and cream make

reasonable substitutes for ordinary yoghurt and cream.
Avoiding lactose
If you have lactose intolerance, you must avoid:
•    milk and all milk-based drinks, unless lactose-reduced
•    cream, creme fraiche
•    most kinds of yoghurt, especially mild yoghurt. A very strong, acidic yoghurt may contain

little lactose. The bacteria that make yoghurt turn lactose into lactic acid, so the more acidic it is,

the less lactose it contains.
•    cottage cheese and Norwegian brown cheese, or Gjetost. Other kinds of cheese are usually so low

in lactose that they are tolerated. Only those people with extreme lactose intolerance need to avoid

all cheeses.
•    white and bechamel sauce, custard, rice and other milk-based puddings
•    almost all home-made cakes, since milk is generally used for baking. Items cooked with butter

but not milk, such as biscuits, cookies and pastry, are usually tolerated, as is butter itself, and all

margarine.
•    lactose in medicines. Lactose powder is used in many tablets and capsules, just to bulk out the

drugs. The amount used can be sufficient to evoke symptoms in some people with lactase deficiency.

Certain asthma inhalers also contain lactose (see p. 162), and a small amount may be swallowed. The

lactose from inhalers will affect you only if you have severe lactase deficiency.
Soya-based products, and all other nut- or grain-based milk substitutes, are lactose-free. Sheep’s

milk, goat’s milk and other animal milks (including human breast milk) all contain lactose.
Using lactase replacers
Many people with lactose intolerance are able to eat a more varied diet by using lactase replacers.

These provide a temporary supply of the missing enzyme, lactase (see p. 79), which helps out by

digesting the lactose in milky foods. Lactase replacers must be taken at the same time as the milky

food, and are only effective for that one meal. The more lactose there is in the meal or snack, the

more of the lactase replacer you need – trial and error is the only way of working out how much you

need for a particular food. There are a number of different brands of lactase replacer now available,

and it is worth trying out several. Some people find that they are sensitive to an added ingredient in

some brands. Sources of lactase replacers include health-food shops and specialist suppliers – these

can be located through the Internet (see p. 255).
Savoury white sauce
Savoury white sauce is the base of many dishes. Here the flavour of the wine and stock goes well with

chicken, vegetables or fish.
PREPARATION TIME: 7-8 minutes MAKES: approx. 600ml (1 pint)
50g (13/4oz) milk-free baking margarine 50g (1314oz) plain flour
200ml (7fl oz) dry cider or dry white wine 400ml (14f1 oz) vegetable or chicken stock 1 bay leaf, salt

and pepper
Melt the margarine in a small saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring, over a low heat for
1 minute then stir in the cider or wine, followed by the stock. Add the bay leaf and simmer, stirring

occasionally, for 5 minutes until thickened. Season to taste.
Variations. add approx. 6 tbsp finely chopped herbs, e.g. parsley, chives, tarragon or chervil; or add

English or French mustard; or add lemon juice.
Sweet white sauce
PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes MAKES: approx. 300ml (’/?pint)
2 tbsp cornflour
25g (1 oz) caster sugar
300ml (V2 pint) apple or white grape juice 4 tbsp soya cream
25g (1oz) milk-free margarine
In a saucepan, mix the cornflour and sugar with a little of the juice to give a smooth paste then

gradually stir in the rest of the juice and bring to a simmer over a low heat. Simmer for 1-2 minutes

until thickened, stirring all the time. Finally, add the soya cream and margarine.
Variations: melt in 1008 (3-/2oz) or more of milk-free chocolate; or add rum or brandy to taste; or add

4-6 pieces finely chopped stem ginger together with 1-2 tbsp of their syrup.
Pancakes
Soya milk has a slightly thicker consistency than cow’s milk and therefore more is used in this pancake

recipe than would be needed in a traditional one.
PREPARATION TIME: 25 minutes MAKES: approx. 16 small pancakes
150g (5V2oz) plain flour, sieved 2 large eggs
pinch salt
450ml (16f1 oz) soya milk
oil or milk-free margarine for frying To serve:
lemon juice and caster sugar or golden syrup
Combine the flour, eggs, salt and soya milk in a liquidiser until smooth. Alternatively place the

flour, eggs and salt in a bowl and slowly whisk in the soya milk to form a thin batter.
Heat approx.1 tsp oil or margarine in an 18cm (7in) non-stick frying pan and swirl until hot. Pour in

sufficient batter to just cover the base of the pan and cook until golden. Turn and cook on the other

side until golden.
Serve with lemon juice and caster sugar or with golden syrup.
Apple and frangipane tart
An alternative to a milk-based custard tart. The combination of apple and almond is delicious. Serve

freshly baked. It can also be eaten cold, but if possible, warm it a
little before serving.
PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 1-11/4 hours MAKES: 8 servings
Pastry:
175g (6oz) plain flour, sieved
1008 (3 V2oz) milk-free baking margarine, softened
25g (1 oz) caster sugar
Filling:
50g (13/4oz) milk-free sunflower margarine 1008 (3112oz) ground almonds
100g (3112oz) plus 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 egg yolks
2 tbsp dark rum, brandy or orange juice 2 large dessert apples
4 tbsp apricot jam
Work the flour, margarine and sugar together with 1 tbsp cold water to make a soft dough. Roll out and

use to line a deep 20cm (8in) fluted flan tin. Chill this while you prepare the filling.
Preheat the oven to 190′C/375′F/gas mark 5. Beat together the margarine, ground almonds, 100g (3Y2oz)

caster sugar, egg yolks and rum. Peel, core and roughly chop one apple and stir into the mixture.

Spread this in the pastry case. Core and thinly slice the remaining apple and arrange the slices on

top. Sprinkle with the remaining sugar and bake for 1-1′/’4 hours until risen and golden. Cool slightly

then brush the surface with the apricot jam (warm this gently in a saucepan first).
Coconut rice pudding with mango
This pudding is based on a Thai recipe. The rice pudding will become thicker the longer it cooks and

also as it cools. Make sure the mango is ripe.
COOKING TIME: 30-40 minutes MAKES: 6 servings
175g (6oz) pudding rice, rinsed 50-75g (131-2314oz) sugar
1 litre (13/4 pints) carton rice milk 400ml (14f1 oz) coconut milk To serve:
1 extra-large ripe mango, peeled and diced
toasted coconut shreds
Place the rice in a large saucepan with 50g (13/4oz) of the sugar and the rice milk and coconut milk.

Bring to a simmer, stirring. Simmer gently for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is

cooked and the milk absorbed. Add the extra sugar if wished. Serve warm or cold, topped with mango and

toasted coconut.
Baked strawberry creams with strawberry sauce
The riper the strawberries the better, to give intensity to both the creams and the sauce.
PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 20-25 minutes MAKES: 6
1008 (3112oz) caster sugar
4 tbsp Muscat wine
1 tsp lemon juice
350g (12oz) strawberries, hulled and sliced
4 large eggs, beaten Sauce:
225g (Boz) strawberries, hulled and chopped
2 tbsp icing sugar 2 tbsp Muscat wine To serve:
a few whole strawberries
Preheat the oven to 1 70′C/325′F/gas mark 3. Set six 1 50ml (Y4 pint) ramekins in a small roasting tin.

If you plan to unmould the creams, oil the ramekins lightly.
Place the sugar, wine, lemon juice and strawberries in a saucepan and heat gently to dissolve the

sugar. Bring to the boil and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Cool slightly then puree in a liquidiser

and whisk into the beaten eggs. Pass through a sieve then pour into the ramekin dishes.
Pour hot water from a kettle around the ramekins and cook in the centre of the oven for 20-25 minutes

until lightly set.
Remove the dishes from the tin and allow to cool. Chill, if wished.
Combine all the sauce ingredients and liquidise until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve.
Serve the creams in the ramekins with a little sauce poured on top and decorated with a whole

strawberry, or carefully unmould, pour a little sauce over, then decorate with a whole strawberry.
Variation: oil the ramekins. Dissolve 100g (31/2oz) caster sugar in 4 tbsp water in a small saucepan

over gentle heat, then cook to a rich caramel without stirring. Pour a little caramel into each oiled

ramekin then continue as above. Pour the wine for the sauce into the pan used to make the caramel and

warm gently to dissolve any leftover caramel, then continue with the sauce as above.
Frozen vanilla dessert
This is a cross between a sorbet and an ice cream.
PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes, plus freezing MAKES: 4-6 servings
1 vanilla pod, split
150g (51/2oz) caster sugar 500g carton soya yoghurt
Place the vanilla pod and sugar in a saucepan with 300ml (1/2 pint) water. Dissolve over gentle heat

then bring to a simmer and simmer for 20 minutes. Leave to cool then remove the pod, scraping all the

seeds from it and returning them to the syrup. Beat in the soya yoghurt and freeze.
You will get the best texture by using an ice-cream machine. Alternatively, freeze in a plastic

container then remove from the freezer and beat the mixture well until smooth (you can do this in a

food processor). Return to the freezer. Repeat this process once or twice.
Baked strawberry cream with strawberry sauce
Variations: add 100g (31/2oz) melted plain chocolate; or add 2 tbsp instant espresso coffee dissolved

in 2 tbsp hot water. Alternatively, dissolve 100g (3/2oz) caster sugar over a gentle heat in a small

saucepan until it turns to a rich caramel; then add 100g (31/2oz) unblanched almonds and stir with a

metal spoon until they start to pop. Transfer to an oiled tray and leave to set. Crush roughly and add

to the basic mixture.
Fruit lassi
This refreshing Indian drink can also be made with frozen fruit, in which case don’t use iced water –

cold will do.
PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes
MAKES: approx. 1.35 litres (21/4 pints)
500g carton soya yoghurt
50-75g (1314-231aoz) sugar
225g (8oz) berries such as raspberries, strawberries, blackberries or blueberries or the equivalent

weight of chopped fruit such as mango, peach or papaya
600ml (1 pint) iced water
Place all the ingredients in a liquidiser and blend until smooth.
Frozen vanilla desert
Banana and strawberry shake
A special treat for a child who cannot have milk.
PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes MAKES: 600ml (I pint)
2 large, very ripe bananas
150g (5112oz) strawberries
1112 tbsp olive oil
a little nutmeg or other spice, if liked 200ml (7fl oz) water
Peel the bananas and roughly chop the fruit. Combine all the ingredients in a blender until very

smooth. Serve immediately, or cover tightly and store in the refrigerator.
Variations: use a nectarine or a skinned peach instead of strawberries; use coconut milk (available in

tins) instead of olive oil, and the flesh of a small mango, or half a large mango, instead of

strawberries.

Allergens in Food
Anyone with true food allergy or coeliac disease needs to be very careful about avoiding certain foods. The information given here is aimed mainly at such people, rather than those with food intolerance (see p. 74), who can usually tolerate small amounts of their offending foods. However, some of the basic information given here is relevant to those with food intolerance as well.
There are different levels of sensitivity even among those with true food allergy. The ‘exquisitely sensitive’ can react to unbelievably minute traces of the food, and for them life is especially difficult. The same is true of some coelicacs, who can be affected by the tiniest quantity of gluten.
These people are a small minority. The level of vigilance required of such people will not be necessary for most people reading this book, so don’t get things out of proportion. While it is vital to be sensible about avoiding your problem food, it is also important not to become over-anxious.
Buying basic ingredients
Cooking for yourself is the safest way to eat for those with true food allergy and coeliac disease. There are relatively few hazards, but do beware of well-meaning assistants in health-food shops who try to sell you some exotic package of grain or flour – spelt or kamut or triticale, for example – reassuring
you that it is ‘definitely not wheat’. Be well informed about the different forms of your problem food and the names under which it is sold (see pp. 172-5).
Oils made from foods such as corn or peanut sometimes cause concern. Ordinary refined oils have been so thoroughly processed that they actually contain no allergenic proteins, so you can safely use these. Bottles of gourmet walnut oil and almond oil are a different story however, and should be avoided if you have nut allergies. Sesame oil is not purified either and can provoke serious reactions. With any oil, if you are unsure how safe it might be, go by the smell. Oils that smell or taste like the food from which they are made could well contain allergens.
Those with allergy to tuna can usually eat tinned tuna because the processing makes it safe. The allergens in fresh fruit and vegetables are generally inactivated by cooking too, so jams and tinned fruits tend to be safe – but test very cautiously. Cooking does not have much effect on other food allergens, apart from eggs. In rare cases, cooking can create allergens (see box on p. 186).
If you share your kitchen with others, and are highly sensitive, check that all cooking utensils are truly clean before use. Coeliac should watch out for breadcrumbs in the butter dish, jam or toaster. Where small children are allergic to a food, it may be best to keep the culprit out of the house entirely.
Genetic engineering and food allergy
Many people with food allergies are very concerned about the possibility that genetic engineering could introduce allergens from one plant species into another. This concern seems to be shared by government officials and those in the food industry, who are being extremely vigilant and cautious at present. As long as this attitude continues, there should be little danger to food allergy sufferers.
Finding food in funny places
If you are suffering some inexplicable reactions to non-food items, it might, just possibly, be a food reaction. Some latex gloves contain the milk protein casein, for example, added as a manufacturing aid.
Buying packaged foods
There are several different issues here:
• the need to read labels carefully for allergenic ingredients described by unfamiliar names (see p. 172)
• errors in the packaging used (see pp. 174-5)
• contamination by minute traces of a food substance due to processing machinery not being cleaned adequately. Cartons of fruit drink have occasionally been contaminated with traces of milk because the same production lines were used for packaging milk drinks. Tofu desserts made in ice-cream factories can also become contaminated with milk. These tiny traces of a food will only affect the most highly sensitive individuals, but contamination by nuts can involve large pieces and affect anyone with nut allergy (see p. 174).
• foodstuffs which are used as part of the production process
and leave a tiny residue in the finished item (see p. 174).
Be very cautious indeed about ready-made food that is unlabelled, such as that from bakeries and home-made stalls. Egg is frequently used as a glaze on baked products, nuts may lurk within, and milk or wheat can turn up in the most unlikely places.
Restaurants, cafes and takeaways
The majority of fatal and near-fatal incidents involving people with true food allergy are due to restaurants, cafeterias and canteens. Takeaways can also be a problem except in the case of the large chains such as McDonald’s, where ingredients are standardised. It is alarming that highly allergenic foods (e.g. peanut) are sometimes used – yet far from obvious – in recipes and sandwich fillings where they would simply not be expected. Anyone with peanut or shellfish allergy should be ultra-cautious about Chinese, Thai or Malaysian cooking – but those with milk allergy should find a haven here, because milk is not part of these culinary traditions.
The simplest solution is to eat very plainly when you go out –steak and salad, for example. Steer clear of casseroles and thick soups, where you can’t see what’s in it (the occasional chef throws in peanut butter to thicken the mix…). Food wrapped in pastry is best avoided for the same reason. Desserts and cakes are risky for anyone with nut, egg or milk allergy.
You must insist on accurate information about the food before you taste it. If the counter staff, the waiter or the waitress
is unsure of the ingredients, ask them to check with the chef, or with the label on pre-packaged food. Be persistent and never eat anything unless you are sure. Make eye contact with the person concerned, and learn to be a good judge of character. Your life could depend on telling the difference between the waiter who knows the facts about the food and the waiter who is being blandly reassuring for the sake of a quiet life.
It is a great mistake to pick out the pieces of offending food – kiwi fruit from a fruit salad for example – and eat the rest. There is often enough allergen left behind to cause anaphylaxis in the highly allergic individual.
Those who are extremely sensitive to the offending food must also consider the problem of contamination in the kitchen. Grills and fryers in restaurants and canteens can become contaminated with fish allergens or nut allergens (e.g. from nut cutlets) and these can be transferred to fried potatoes or other foods, provoking anaphylaxis in the highly allergic individual. One person with fish allergy died in this way. Sesame seeds can also contaminate equipment, work-surfaces or bakery counters.
Parties and buffets
Milk, egg, shellfish or nut allergies can make it especially hazardous to eat buffet or party food. Regard everything with suspicion. Cocktail snacks with nuts or peanut paste hidden inside are a particular problem.
When fish allergy isn’t fish allergy
Anisakis is a parasitic worm that infests fish and can sometimes survive the
cooking process to infect humans. The worms are easily thrown off by the human immune system, but the body is primed to make IgE antibodies should
it ever encounter Anisakis again. Another meal of parasitised fish – even if the Anisakis worms are all dead this time, and only the allergens remain
will provoke a massive IgE-mediated reaction, leading to anaphylactic shock. This problem is usually misdiagnosed as allergy to fish itself.
Other inconsistent reactions to food can be due to contaminants such as antibiotics, preservatives, other food additives or (especially in the case of shellfish) naturally occuring toxins.