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Egg-Free Diets

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

Egg-Free Diets
Tempura-style vegetables
There is nothing quite like an egg, especially when it comes to baking. Egg protein is the magical

ingredient that holds together a pancake, and creates the light and delicate structure of sponge cakes,

batter, souffles, mousses and meringues.
Unfortunately, egg protein is also a potent allergen for some people, and a source of intolerance

reactions for others.
Egg replacers, designed mainly for cake making, are one answer. They can be purchased from specialist

suppliers (see p. 255) or ordered via your local health-food shop. These are protein-rich mixes which

aim to simulate the structural properties of eggs, not the flavour. Recipes are usually supplied with

the replacer, and it is best to follow these recipes at first, for guaranteed results. Once you have

got the feel of using the egg replacer, you can experiment with substituting it for eggs in other cake

recipes.
Note that these egg replacers make no attempt to simulate the richness and characteristic taste of

eggs. You may need to add extra butter or other fats to your cake mix if using egg replacers. Vanilla

extract can also improve the flavour of an egg-free cake.
Can cooking make eggs safe?
Cooking changes proteins, as eggs illustrate vividly. When a hot oven turns liquid egg white into a

hard meringue, or a sloppy cake mix into a firm sponge, the visible effect is due to the egg protein

being fundamentally changed.
Heating changes the basic molecular structure of the egg protein, in a process called denaturing.

Whereas natural egg protein is liquid, denatured egg protein is solid.
Denaturing egg protein has subtle effects, as well as these obvious ones. When the structure of the

molecule changes, some of the epitopes (the key features recognised by allergy antibodies — see box on

p. 15) are obliterated. For a few allergy sufferers — those who react only to the epitopes affected by

denaturing — thorough heating can therefore turn the egg allergen into a harmless substance.
If eggs are hard-boiled, the denaturing process occurs to the fullest possible extent. Consequently,

some people with egg allergy can eat hard-boiled eggs without ill-effects. However, the same people

still react badly to lightly cooked eggs, such as those in a souffle or omelette because, with partial

cooking, the denaturing process is incomplete.
Cakes made with eggs pose an interesting question — given that the cooking process for cakes is

prolonged and at a high temperature, could they too be safe? This is something that allergists have not

so far investigated.
If you want to test your response to hard-boiled eggs, you must do so under full medical supervision

with resuscitation equipment available. Those who find that they can tolerate hard-boiled eggs might

then want to test their reaction to cakes made with eggs. Again, there must be medical supervision for

the test, in case of severe life-threatening reactions. You will, of course, have to convince your

allergist that such a test is worthwhile.
Egg protein is not unique in being susceptible to denaturing — most proteins can be denatured, some by

heat, some by other means. But only in a few cases (tuna fish, and fresh fruits and vegetables — see p.

110) does denaturing tend to destroy the allergenic epitopes.
Very rarely, changing the structure of a protein by cooking may actually create an allergenic epitope

where none exists in the raw protein. There have been cases of individuals with an allergy to cooked

fish but not raw fish, and to pecan nuts in
biscuits but not uncooked pecans. Roasting peanuts makes them much more allergenic.
Tempura-style vegetables
Beer is a good alternative to eggs for making a batter and gives this Japanese batter a wonderfully

light crisp texture. Have all the vegetables ready prepared so you can cook and eat the tempura as

quickly as possible.
PREPARATION TIME: about 45 minutes MAKES: 4-6 servings
400-500g (14oz-11b 2oz) prepared vegetables cut into bite-sized pieces -choose from red pepper,

asparagus, broccoli, spring onion or red onion, carrot, courgette, baby corn, button mushrooms,

aubergine
150g (5/oz) self-raising flour, sieved,
plus extra for coating vegetables
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp sesame seeds
250ml (9fl oz) lager or Japanese beer vegetable oil for deep-frying
To serve:
equal quantities soy sauce and dry sherry
mixed together, or sweet chilli sauce
Toss the prepared vegetables in flour until lightly coated then shake off the excess. Heat the oil in a

large saucepan over medium heat until a cube of bread dropped in turns brown in 30 seconds.
Mix the measured flour, salt and sesame seeds and quickly stir in the beer - don’t worry if the mixture

is slightly lumpy. Dip the vegetables in the batter, a few pieces at a time, and then immediately into

the hot oil. Cook until crisp and golden.
Drain on kitchen paper and keep warm in a hot oven. Continue in the same way until all the vegetables

are cooked.
Serve with a dipping sauce made of soy sauce and dry sherry, or dip in sweet chilli sauce.
Caramelised onion tart
Caramelised onion tart
This makes a good substitute for quiche and other egg-based flans. The long, slow cooking of the onions

is important to bring out their natural sweetness.
PREPARATION TIME: 45 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes MAKES: 6-8 servings
1 k (21b 4oz) onions, halved then thinly sliced
4 tbsp olive oil
125g (41/2oz) streaky bacon, finely chopped
1 tsp caraway seeds
salt and freshly ground black pepper 350g (1 2oz) bread dough or puff pastry
Place the onions in a very large saucepan with the oil, bacon and caraway seeds and cook over medium

heat, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes until the onions are softened and lightly

caramelised. Season generously.
Roll out the dough thinly and use to line a deep 24cm (91/2in) fluted flan tin. Prick the base with a

fork then fill with the onion mixture. Cook on a baking sheet in a preheated oven at 230°C/450°F/gas

mark 8 for 30 minutes until the dough or pastry is crisp and golden.
Feta in a crisp polenta jacket
Variations: replace the bacon with 125-1758 (41/2-6oz) crumbled goat’s cheese or 125-175g (4/,2-6oz)

diced smoked tofu, for a vegetarian version; or add a handful of pitted olives.
Feta in a crisp polenta jacket
The oil must be really hot to ensure a crisp crust for these delicious cheese croquettes.
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes MAKES: 4 servings
vegetable oil
200g (7oz) feta cheese, cut in 8 fingers 40g (I Y2oz) cornmeal
To serve:
salad of your choice, e.g. tomato, cucumber, red onion and flat-leaf parsley, or skinned and charred

red peppers with rocket
Pour the oil into a saucepan and set over a high heat. Meanwhile, dip the cheese fingers in Iced water

for about 1 minute then roll in the cornmeal until evenly coated. Deep-fry for 1-2 minutes until crisp

and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and serve at once on top of the salad.
Egg-free pancakes
Tofu filling for a savoury flan
This very simple savoury flan filling makes an egg-free, milk-free substitute for quiche. This recipe

makes enough filling for a 20cm (Bin) pastry case.
PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes COOKING TIME: about 25 minutes
250g (9oz) tofu, natural or smoked 1 tbsp wine vinegar or lemon juice 1 tbsp dried mixed herbs
200ml (7fi oz) soya milk
Combine all the ingredients in a blender and pour into a pre-baked flan case. Cook in a preheated oven

at 190′C/375′F/gas mark 5 for about 25 minutes until set.
Variations., add either sauteed chopped onion; chopped cooked ham with spring onion; roasted

vegetables, such as carrot, peppers and tomatoes; or cooked spinach, beetroot or broccoli.
Tofu mayonnaise
This mayonnaise can be flavoured with chopped herbs, roasted garlic puree or tomato puree. It will

keep, covered, in the fridge for 3-4 days.
PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes MAKES: approx. 250ml (9fl oz)
Lemon cake
100g (3%oz) soft tofu
100g (3%zoz) Greek yoghurt
1 tsp English mustard
1 tbsp Dijon or wholegrain mustard
iced water
salt and pepper
Blend all the ingredients except the water, salt and pepper in a liquidiser. Season to taste and thin

as required with iced water.
Avocado dressing
This dressing is delicious with tomato salads, prawns or grilled steak. Keep it tightly covered

otherwise it will discolour quickly.
PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes MAKES: approx. 250ml (9fl oz)
1 medium-sized ripe avocado
4 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp white wine vinegar or lemon or lime juice
iced water
salt and pepper
Halve, stone, peel and chop the avocado and blend in a liquidiser with all the remaining ingredients

except the water, salt and pepper until smooth. Season to taste and thin as required with iced water.
Egg-free pancakes
These pancakes can be served with either savoury or sweet fillings.
PREPARATION TIME: 25 minutes MAKES: 10
100g (3V2oz) plain flour
2 tbsp arrowroot powder
300ml (V2 pint) milk
vegetable oil or melted butter for frying
To serve:
golden syrup, jam or lemon juice and caster sugar
Mix the flour and arrowroot, then stir in the milk to give a smooth batter. Leave to rest, ideally for

20 minutes.
Heat 1 tsp oil in an 18cm (7in) nonstick frying pan and pour in 2-3 tbsp batter, enough to just cover

the base of the pan, swirling it as it falls into the pan to give a thin layer. Cook until golden on

one side then carefully turn and cook the other side. Repeat until all the batter is used up. To ensure

a crisp result every time, make sure the fat is hot.
For a sweet pancake, serve with golden syrup, jam, or lemon juice and caster sugar.
For savoury pancakes, fill with a white sauce flavoured with smoked fish and prawns, or ham and

parsley, or ratatouille and cheese.
Raspberry and sherry syllabub trifle
Syllabub makes an unusual topping for this trifle with its egg-free shortbread base, but if you prefer,

make a custard with custard powder and top with whipped cream. Vary the fruit with the seasons -

poached pears, fresh orange, and cooked cranberries are all suitable.
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes MAKES: 6-8 servings
I 75g (6oz) butter shortbread
6 tbsp medium or sweet sherry
225g (8oz) fresh or frozen raspberries 284ml carton whipping cream
50g (13/4oz) caster sugar
To serve:
25g (1oz) toasted flaked almonds
Roughly break the shortbread and put in the bottom of a trifle bowl or any decorative serving bowl.

Sprinkle with 2 tbsp sherry then top with the raspberries. Whip the cream and sugar with the remaining

sherry until it holds its shape, then pile on top of the raspberries. Chill until required, then, just

before serving, sprinkle the top with flaked almonds.
Lemon cake
This cake has a tangy lemon flavour and a slightly dense texture. Serve it plain or with fresh berries

and whipped cream or creme fraiche. Try replacing the lemon with orange.
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes
COOKING TIME: about 1 hour
MAKES: 1 x 19-20cm (71/2-8in) cake
100g (3112oz) butter, melted
200g (7oz) caster sugar
250g (9oz) self-raising flour, sieved 1 tbsp baking powder
250g (9oz) natural yoghurt
finely grated zest and juice of 1 small unwaxed lemon
1-2 tbsp milk (optional)
To serve:
icing sugar
Butter a 19-20cm (71/2-8in) spring-release tin and line the base with greaseproof paper. Place all the

ingredients in a large bowl and beat well to a firm dropping consistency. You may need to add 1-2 tbsp

milk, depending on the type of yoghurt you have used. Transfer to the prepared tin, level the surface

then bake in a pre-
heated oven at 180′C/350′F/gas mark 4 for 50-60 minutes until risen and just firm to the touch. Cool in

the tin for about 30 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack until completely cold. Dust with icing

sugar.
Fig, orange and pear shortcake
PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 45 minutes MAKES: 8-10 servings
250g (9oz) chopped dried figs
finely grated zest and juice of 1 medium
unwaxed orange 1 ripe pear, chopped
250g (9oz) plain flour, sieved
1758 (6oz) butter
100g (3112oz) light muscovado or soft brown sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon To serve:
icing sugar (optional)
Place the figs, orange zest and juice and the chopped pear in a saucepan and cook over medium heat

until the figs and pear are soft and all the juice has been absorbed. Place the flour, butter, sugar

and cinnamon in a food processor and blend. Alternatively, rub in by hand until the mixture resembles

fine crumbs. Add 1 tbsp cold water and stir until the mixture forms rough lumps. Press half the cake

mixture onto the oiled base of a 19cm (71/2in) spring-release tin. Spread the fruit mixture on top,

then finish with the remaining cake mixture, pressing it down lightly.
Cook in a preheated oven at 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for 45 minutes. Cool in the tin. Dust with icing

sugar, if wished, and serve in wedges.
Variations: replace the figs and pear with dried apricots and an apple; or replace the figs with

prunes, dried pineapple or dried mango.
Date and walnut loaf
Dates give this egg-free cake a wonderfully moist texture that is even better after a day or two. Store

in a cool place in an airtight container.
PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: about 45 minutes MAKES: 1 large loaf
250g (9oz) chopped dried dates
100g (3′12oz) light muscovado or soft
brown sugar 25g (1 oz) butter
2 tsp ground mixed spice
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
275g (93/4oz) self-raising flour, sieved
1008 (3′12 oz) walnut pieces
To serve:
butter (optional)
Place the dates in a large bowl with the sugar, butter, spice and bicarbonate of soda. Mix well, then

pour on 250ml (9fl oz) boiling water. Leave to cool slightly then beat in the flour followed by the

walnuts. Transfer the mixture to an oiled and base-lined 900g (21b) loaf tin. Level the surface and

cook in a preheated oven at 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for about 45 minutes, until risen and just firm to

the touch.
Cool in the tin for about 30 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Serve in slices,

with or without butter.